The Caribbean’s Best Dive Spot You’ve Never Heard Of

When it comes to great diving in the Caribbean, the space is dominated by familiar faces: Cozumel, Roatan, the Bahamas, the Florida Keys, and so on. But these destinations often come with a cost: crowded dive sites, damaged reefs, skittish fish, and the sensation that you’ve never actually left the US. For many, that last point is one of these destinations’ biggest pluses, but for those ready to venture beyond, there’s no better place to look than Colombia’s Caribbean coast.

Now, I know you’re thinking, "Really? Colombia? I didn’t know there was diving there!" This is a common sentiment, but it's kind of crazy when you consider that three of the top diving destinations in the world, according to almost every list, are in Colombia: Providencia, Malpelo, and Isla Gorgona. Admittedly, these sites are for more hardcore divers, or at least, divers who have money to spend and time to get there, as they are all either extremely remote, expensive, and/or require a liveaboard stay (AKA, expensive). It’s no wonder, then, that even divers who have heard about the amazing diving in Colombia assume it’s out of their reach. This is where I come in with the good news!

Nestled on the Caribbean coast, just 40 minutes from Santa Marta’s international airport, lies Taganga. This tiny town is home to around 5,000 people, which gives visitors the chance to truly connect with locals and local culture. Taganga started as a fishing town, but has converted into a diving town over the last 30 years. Today, Taganga boasts the most affordable prices in the world for getting your PADI diving certification. There are over a dozen dive centers, which engage in friendly competition that continuously drives the industry forward.  

The best part about diving in Taganga is its close-but-not-too-close proximity to Tayrona National Nature Park, a natural reserve that includes both land and sea. Divers enjoy two-tank excursions in the park, which is just a 20-minute boat ride away. While super close dive sites and the opportunity for single tank dives are obviously appealing, being slightly farther from the dive sites has a distinct advantage: shelter from the abuse and pollution that is inevitable when humans live nearby.

Coral + Fish Biodiversity Supercenter

Tayrona National Park is unique in that it has remained almost completely untouched by recent Caribbean bleaching events. This is incredible news, considering that several Tayrona dive sites are home to what are widely considered to be the largest boulder brain corals in the world. Many are larger than a VW Beetle, and some are as large as a room! While diving in Taganga, you’ll also find the most INSANE gardens of elkhorn coral. I mean, drifting for 5 minutes over NON-STOP, massive, luscious elkhorn corals! Discerning coral lovers will also spot several species of lettuce corals, cactus, rose, and maze coral, two species of flower coral, mustard hill coral, star and starlet coral (including mountainous star coral!), sheet coral, artichoke and mushroom coral, cup coral, at least three species of black coral, and a crazy range of gorgonians.

Forest of Elkhorn corals in Taganga, Colombia

When it comes to marine life, Taganga has an astounding array of biodiversity. I frequently find and film creatures that I can’t find in Caribbean fish ID books, especially when it comes to small stuff. You can see all the Caribbean classics here (including green turtles and rays, if you’re lucky), with a much higher density of fish in general. Taganga is the only place where I’ve seen schools of balloon fish, or groups of two to three flying gurnards cruising the sand in search of food. I’ve seen a porcupine fish nearly 3 feet long, and a goliath grouper bigger than I am! There are nudibranchs, blennies, frogfish, seahorses, needlefish, porgies, and so much more. For divers who know what they’re looking at, Tayrona is a goldmine of marine species.

Water Conditions + When to Dive

Unlike many Caribbean destinations, Taganga is hurricane-free and rarely ever cancels dives due to poor conditions. Taganga is very close to the equator, so there are only two seasons classified as “wet” and “dry.”

During the summer months, Taganga experiences its dry season. From April to August, expect water temperatures in the low 80s and visibility to be around 40-60’. Taganga virtually never sees 100’+ visibility because the healthy coral and marine life is fed by nutrient-rich waters, which slightly lower visibility. On land, this season is WARM, so come with a reusable water bottle to keep hydrated, and search for accommodations (and dive centers) with air conditioning. 

This is my favorite season for diving, both for the water conditions and because there is something about the heat that brings out the best of Colombia’s rich culture: asados (barbecues), impromptu fiestas at the dive shop, and unforgettable sunsets. 

During the fall months, Taganga enters its wet season, with frequent showers and at times, significant downpours. Water temperatures will drop enough that you’ll want a wetsuit (around the low 70s). As with all of the Caribbean, rain brings reduced visibility, but often that sediment brings bigger marine life, increasing your odds of seeing turtles, rays, and grouper. On land, temperatures are gorgeous, even when it rains. This can be a high wind season on land, so ladies, make sure you have on nice underwear if you’re going to wear a skirt! 

Culture + Safety + How to Get to Taganga 

Colombia’s culture is completely determined by the region you’re in, with regions generally being divided into the Andes, the Amazon, and the Coast (that’s us). Coastal culture is warm, friendly, and open, focused on enjoying life and taking one’s time to get things done. There is no personal bubble in Colombian culture, and most costeños (people from the coast) greet and exit with a cheek kiss. Time is told in increments of ahorita, which can mean anything from 5 minutes from now, to tomorrow, to never, so travelers should come prepared to ditch their watch and count time with boat schedules and sunsets rather than minutes and hours. 

Colombians speak Spanish. While most dive professionals and those working in tourism speak English, your average costeño doesn’t. The local currency is Colombian Pesos (COP), and depending on the day, it runs about 4,100 COP to $1 USD. US dollars are not accepted, so you’ll need to pull out pesos at the ATM or via an exchange booth in the airport. Many, but not all, businesses accept cards, but may charge 6% extra if you pay with card. 

Colombia has loooooooooong since left the days of Pablo Escobar behind, and will not take kindly to your references and jokes, so ditch those at the door. Santa Marta and Taganga are very safe areas where you can enjoy the day and nightlife without worry. As with anywhere in the world, don’t make yourself an easy target by doing things like walking down dark, deserted streets alone late at night, or wearing flashy jewelry, pulling a wad of cash out of your wallet, etc. There’s also a much lower risk of scams and price gouging in Santa Marta and Taganga than in tourist trap destinations like Cartagena, which is famous for these sketchy practices. 

Taganga is an easy 40-minute taxi ride from Simon Bolivar International Airport in Santa Marta, and only 12 minutes from Santa Marta’s historic center and famous Parque de los Novios. You can fly directly to Santa Marta. For more cost-conscious travelers, search for flights to Cartagena (5 hours by shuttle) or Barranquilla (2 hours by shuttle), then take a shuttle to Santa Marta.

Your Trip, Planned By a Local

Still feeling intimidated by the idea of planning a dive trip to Taganga? Skip the stress and let a local plan your trip!

Your Concierge finds hotels and fully furnished apartments not listed on sites like Booking and Airbnb, at local prices. You get a bigger, comfier place to stay at a lower price than you’d find online. Plus, you can share your exact needs and talk to someone who intimately knows the area and the options available, so you can feel confident with your reservation. 

Your Concierge books your accommodations, transportation, diving, and tours. They also offer a full range of concierge services during your stay to make your trip easy and convenient.